Super Mouse Glue Traps

Mouse Glue Traps
Mouse Glue Traps

Be careful when placing this trap. The glue is very sticky and sticks easilly to almost anything. If you mistakenly touch the sticky part when placing this, you’ll have a struggle getting the glue off your fingers. It’s mouse/rat trapping ability in undeniable though. I have had it catch up to two mouse in a night and have eliminated a whole nest of mice from a room in the house. The only draw back is it can be used only once. don’t try to remove the mouse and re-use. It will be a messy deal. it also sticks to ants, spiders and other bugs, so it tends to start looking a bit messy when out for a while even if it has caught no mice.

  • Excellent for capturing rats, mice and other household pests
  • Eugenol enhances stickiness
  • Non-toxic formula
  • May also be used for cockroaches, scorpions, spiders and most other pests
  • Ready to use

I am embarrassed to admit that I have mice in my house. I have no idea how they are getting in but these Tomcat Super Hold Glue Traps have been a lifesaver. The first day I set out two of the traps under a chair where I noticed mouse droppings. I put little pieces of peanuts in the middle of each trap. The next morning there were two dead mice on each of the traps. I disposed of the traps and set out two more. This time one of the the traps had moved halfway across my living room with a struggling, terrified mouse halfway stuck to it. I freaked out and called my neighbor. He came and put the mouse out of his misery (and me out of mine.) Meanwhile, the other trap was untouched so I believed my mouse infestation had been taken care of. Wrong. Two days later I found another dead mouse in the trap that had moved locations. I think the poor mouse dragged the trap across the room and then died from exhaustion. So far I have eliminated 6 mice from my house and I had to go out and purchase more Tomcat Glue Traps. So far there have been no more mice but I am keeping the glue traps loaded with peanuts just in case they decide to return. I have a little dog so I was afraid to use traditional mouse traps because I didn’t want the dog to get hurt. She hasn’t been interested in the glue traps at all, but to be on the safe side I slid them under a chair where the dog can’t reach. These glue traps have saved my sanity. I was completely unnerved about the thought of having mice in my home, but thanks to Tomcat my problem seems to have been solved.

These are very effective and the nice thing is that a lot of times you will catch 2 mice on one trap. I think once one is caught, others come to help it and get stuck as well.

The tricky part is sometimes one will only be half stuck on – as in, only the front legs or back legs and they try to scurry off with the trap attached to them.

All in all, I have had the best success using glue traps for the past 10 years or so. We tried using bait and poison for a few months and quickly learned that was a bad idea because you don’t know where the mice are crawling off to die at and when you start smelling rotted mice in your house, it is not a nice experience!

Click to check the current prices: Mouse Glue Traps

How to Save a Live Mouse from a Sticky Glue Trap


If you’ve come across a live mouse stuck to a sticky trap, you’ll discover quickly that these things are not designed to let go of the mouse. If you’re wanting to remove the mouse and release it into the wild without injuring it, you’ll need to find a kind way of loosening the mouse. Fortunately there are some good ways of doing this.

Don’t ever try to just pull the mouse off the trap without using one of the release methods. The glue on some of these traps can actually pull off hair and sometimes skin. It is easy to de-glove a mouse or rat tail with the trap glue.

Step 1: Place the mouse on the trap inside a plastic container

Place the entire trap, mouse, bait and all, in a clear plastic container that has surface dimensions a little greater than the sticky trap and that is at least 4 inches (10.2 cm) deep.

Wear rubber gloves if possible and keep your hands away from the mouse. Though mice are little and cute, they do have very sharp teeth and mice can carry disease and the bites hurt. A mouse can do some serious damage with its teeth, so even if you are using gloves, take care not to give the frightened animal a chance to bite.


Step 2: Pour a little vegetable oil over the mouse

Coat it very lightly, as well as coating the surrounding area of the trap. Use just enough oil, maybe a spoonful or two at most. Any sort of cooking oil works, but vegetable oil works best and tends to be the least expensive. The oil negates the sticky glue surface.

  • Never use any other kind of oil. In particular, do not use petroleum-based, synthetic or lubricating oils as these will kill the mouse.
  • Ensure that the mouse’s mouth and nose are not submerged in or covered by oil.
  • Cooking spray is a good alternative to vegetable oil. You can concentrate the spray only on the parts that are stuck without coating any unnecessary areas. Also, aiming the spray at those areas and soaking them causes an almost immediate release of the mouse without wearing it out and causing it to be further injured.


Step 3: Place the lid on the plastic container and lock it down

Wait and watch. The mouse should be able to work its way free of the trap in a few minutes. This can happen almost instantly if the critter is not stuck very well, so make sure you put the lid on as quickly as possible. If the mouse comes unstuck with the lid off, it will almost instantly hop out of the container and once again be free in your building.


Step 4: Rarely, the mouse will need a little help

If it has been stuck on the paper for a prolonged period of time, it can become weak and dehydrated. Also, the plastic tray version of the sticky traps can be very sticky, and the mouse may have trouble getting out, especially if its back legs are stuck together or its tail is submerged in the glue.

  • If this happens, use padded cloth, like an old potholder, to help get the mouse almost free. The cloth should be thick enough that you can’t get bitten through it but flexible enough that you can grasp the rodent with it.
  • When you have the animal mostly free, put the trap in the container and put the lid on and let the mouse do the rest of the work. This can take a few minutes.
  • Check to make sure no glue is covering the mouse’s nose. If there is any there, use a cloth to gently wipe it away. There should not be enough glue on the paper traps for this to be an issue, but could be a problem with the deeper plastic trays.


Step 5: Watch through the container to make sure the mouse is free

It should be able to move around, without its legs or tail stuck together. Once it is up and walking around, it’s time to release it outside. Don’t feel too rushed; there is an hour or so of air in the container, but not much more, so plan to have the mouse free within that time. Also, if you leave the mouse in the container for a longer time, it will start trying to chew its way out and damage the container.


Step 6: Take the mouse to a suitable environment, preferably a large field or wooded area, at least a mile from your building and away from other buildings.

Some rodent species have a daily range of close to a mile, so get them at least that far away, unless you want them to return.


Step 7: Set the container on the ground, preferably near some cover so the mouse can find a place to run to free of predators

Remove the top and take several steps back. The mouse should be able to hop out of the container. You may need to tip the container on its side a bit to encourage the mouse to leave.


Step 8: Clean everything well

Dispose of the old trap and bait in a sealed garbage can outside; the bait and trap can still attract mice and insects, but are now just a food source. Though generally clean animals, mice can carry a variety of diseases that can pose a risk to people and other pets (especially pet rodents), so it is very important to wash and disinfect the container and anything else used to catch and release the mouse. Disinfect and clean the areas where the mouse was living.


Step 9: Wash your hands very well


Step 10: Repeat the process

Where there is one mouse, there are usually more. Leave a few traps out in the same area for a couple of weeks. Keep repeating the process until you have not caught a mouse for a month. Watch for signs of new infestations and place new traps as soon as possible — mice breed really, really, really fast + several litters, as many as seven to 10, in a year.


Can the mouse trap be reused once the mouse is freed?

No, as most of the methods in this article suggest using water or oil to loosen the glue. Once that’s been done, the trap won’t be reusable.


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